H.O.T.

No small talk for the moment, because it's f#*cking HOT.

With sea temperatures of 25 C. and the air being over 33 Celsius, who wants to climb behind a computer, entering pictures and writing simple (but original) stories ?
Not me, hell NO !!!

So enjoy your summer, like I do mine.
In Dalmacija of course.

biokovo horses

For those who frequently visit this blog this picture may look familiar, as I published it long ago before.
But I still like it, so perhaps you do to, and as Biokovo Mountains never changes, this is a picture you may see too, when visiting Dalmatia and spending a day in the mountains.
And why should'nt you, as Biokovo is a fantastic mountainpark.

For lazy people, there is a road all the way up to the very summit at Sveti Jure, but to those a bit less lazy I would like to say: DON'T !.

The top is cramped, crowded, and just the top.
Much, really múch more you get, when you stop halfway up, and take one of the very many marked trails, heading deeper into the park (what's a "park", this is rough, pure, wild nature), or heading to the seaside.
Hard to tell you what's a better suggestion, as both offer a lot.

Tip: both the park office and bookstores in Makarska or Split sell a detailled map, made by Smand, making a walk or a hike into a less big step into the unknown.

Into the unknown you go anyway, so be prepared !
And take at least (!!!) half a liter water with you, as however snow piles up to a couple of meters in winter,
summer sun change the slopes into a pretty hot furnace.

Have fun, take care, and should you like more horses, check the internet on "Livno horses".
As there live a couple of hundred in the wild.

so very true !!!!

Couldn't agree more with this poster.

I found it on the internet, and added the English text to it, so you (and I) understand it.
Should you think my Croatian is perfect, the answer is no.
I manage to communicate on a one to one basis, but as soon as there is a group of people, my brains seem to jam.

Lucky me however, not being shy, I learn a bit every day (svaki dan malo vise), just by practising.
And hopping from one word to another slowly my vocabular increases.

Back to this poster, as I love it !!!!
I printed a couple immediately, as this perfectly explains one of our GOLDEN VALUES.

I also grow my own everything, and I am proud of each result.
However, today I visited some neighboring vegetable gardens, and realised I still have a lot to learn.
Don't know how they do it, but they already have their first tiny tomatoes, while I still struggle to keep mine growing.
Whatever, it's with learning curves always trial and error, being vegetables or language.

The essence of this poster however, I couldn't agree more with !
Become friends with the locals, eat local food.
And as much of it you never get to taste in all them pizza parlors, you simply must (!!!!) go into the Dalmatinska Zagora (the hinterland), as there you will find how Dalmatia tastes.
Perfect, just perfect !

Try for instance Konoba Kunjak near Kucice.
It's about fifteen minutes from Omis, up the mountain road along the Cetina Canyon, and short before Kucice, follow the sign to the left.

Basic, but excellent, and when it's melon season, wait to see what you get from the owner as a desert.
No, he does not charge you for it, as his guests are his friends.
The rest of the meal, splendid lamb from the grill, his very own french fries, tomatoes, salad, and the drinks of course you'll have to pay for.
Who cares, as it's still a very reasonable price too for such quality !

So once again:
Sprijateljite se sa seljakom.

Virtual Tourist: see you some day in Real Paradise.

Left Giampiero, the general manager of VT, and a really good guy.

Dear readers of my blog and good people on VT
( www.virtualtourist.com ).
Until recent I not only wrote my blog but also my informative pages on Virtual Tourist.
Inspiring visitors, giving free tips, answering questions to my best knowledge, having great fun !

Until recent, as a while ago some member called Misseille started to nag about me entering commercial info.
Mind you, I do everything for fun, as I freed myself from commercial activity, and pay my own beers.
Slowly increasing her sarcasm, she brought me to the point of leaving VT's pages.
Very sad, but yes, even in the Virtual world there are people like her, spoiling whatever is unspoiled, turning good mood into a bad mood.
Want to send her a message, go to her VTpages at "Missile", wishing her just a bit of the luck I enjoy.
Tell her open minded communication between honest humans always prevents a war to start.
And in this case I also know who lost it !

The Eagles have a fantastic song on their latest album, singing
"Get over it".
Well, I did and I do, so I closed my VT-account to free myself from her non productive negativism.

As we live here in a little paradise, surrounded by fantastic nature and charming people (and a couple of cats), on the very best location to discover Dalmatia's hidden secrets.
That, and only that is my reason to write, in English, as I want you to know where to go if you are visiting Dalmatia.

Of course there are many ways to experience Croatia's beauties, being a lazy beach holiday at the Adriatic or a trip to Plitvice Lakes or cities like Dubrovnik, Split and Trogir (don't ignore Trogir, please !!!).

And if staying here, close to or in Omis, a lot more is waiting for you, like the Cetina River, Biokovo Nature Park and much, MUCH more.
Hell there is MORE, but you have to open your eyes, ears and heart !

Zooming in, on an organised trip or better, on your own, with an open mind into the open, brings you to discover many hidden pearls, little secrets that are not frequented by regular tourists.
That's what I want you to understand and discover.
If my blog helps you to do so, that's my GOLDEN reward.
(And if you need some help, mail me, the address is in the header).

So, from now on, no more VT pages, only my good old blog, with daily little things combined with pictures and stories about fantastic spots and experiences in this stunning area.
Many of them hidden to most of you.

I might even use the VT-flag once in a while on a picture, as I still have it, and to ensure you all I have no bad feelings about VT as a whole.
Real People behind Real Places they say, and I couldn't agree more.
To bad in the real world there are also real people who are a
"pain in the ass".
So best to do is to kick ass if something really bothers you.

Bye bye VT, back to be a HL*) again, my blog pages are waiting.
In one of the next pages I will put some links to professionals who do a great job here, in case you want to use their splendid service.
But only if you need them, as I do it all for free, because I love this country, and they do it for money AND because AND because they love it too.

Or as they say it in Croatian:
JA VOLIM DALMATIA.

*) a Happy Local again).

PS.
Anybody wanting to comment or write me, my address is in the header of this blog.

how and why ?

About 1800 kilometers from the country we were born, grew up and worked all our life, that's where we live now.

Leaving Holland, with it's Rembrandt's, it's tulips, it's green meadows and cows, what makes people make such move ?
What drives two "strangers" to change such an easy and friendly country to a completely new life, with a not so easy to speak or understand new language ?

Was it the sunny climate, the clear blue Adriatic, good food and even better wines ?
All of it !!!

The climate is nice, at least most of the year, however summers are a bit on the hot side, and winters can be pretty cold in our valley, with even some days of thick snow.
And yes, the Adriatic is stunningly blue, clear are of a very pleasant temperature during a long summer.
Not to mention the food, quality meat, fresh fish, organic vegetables and a variety of fruits.

But all of that is nothing compared to our peace, our silence, our nature, stars, birds, herbs, flowers, our surrounding mountains, and our breath taking panorama.
And, as it showed, our very friendly neighbors and friends, making us part of an active social life.

!!! All of it, ALL OF IT !!!

Once you open your heart to truly experience Dalmatia, not only the "excursion type of experience", but the "dive in and swim" type.
As that's what makes you fall in love with this part of the country.

Nothing negative than ?
Hell yes, you have to fight yourself through a lot of paperwork, have to get used to other habits, even have to accept Croatia has a different kind of bureaucracy (and it's very complicated and giving one many headaches).

But...........it's all worth it !!!!

This life, waking up in this life is almost better than life as a whole, or to say it in other words, this IS life.

Birds are singing, stars still visible, silence is complete, and all we grow on our land tastes ten times better than any well assorted supermarket can offer you.

Nothing comes easy, to burn a wood-fire in winter means cutting wood after summer, eating our own vegetables, fruits and potatoes means taking care of them first, and you only have eggs if you have chickens (at least this quality).

My dentist in Split (and a splendid one too in case you need one) once surprised me by asking: "are you (doomsday) preppers" ?
The question made me smile, as that's certainly not what we are.

Connected to electricity, water, internet, having airco's and freezers, we are common people, connected to common modern life as most of us are in the western world.
But we're privileged and blessed to have moved from over-organized Holland to the hidden beauties of Dalmatia.

That's how, and that's why !

wonderful world

Discovering the globe; it all starts with some local explorations.
That goes for kittens as well as humans.

After some mild rain yesterday, today is as usual, great weather, clear blue skies and a mild 20 C. in the morning.
(And coming week temperature even goes into the 25 degrees, not bad :-).

Everything on our land is growing rapidly, potatoes have been planted, so now it's all a matter of keeping things going with a bit of water and some tlc.

Later this spring we'll enjoy cherries from the trees, first strawberries, young salads, into summer it's melon time, as also a lot of melons have been planted.

Producing (and reproducing) a wide variety of fruits, vegetables and flowers is one of my to many hobbies, and the land we've got is the most fantastic lot (all friends around say).

Still have many other hobbies, pure practical and theoretical (researching Roman history in this area for instance), all of it for the fun of it, as only being in it for the money is history to me (happily retired).

And of course I explore our world like those young cats, as amazed as they are, step af step after step into this gorgeous area.

one, two, three

Recently one of our "house" cats gave bearth to six kittens.
One red, two white, three grey, but that's how it goes here, with many fathers involved in love affairs.

House cats means they live around the house, some on a distance, some less shy, all of them always looking for some food to add to the daily menu hunted around the house.

Many people here have some farm cats, keeping mice or a passing snake at a pleasant distance.
Most of them just use people to get an extra meal, some of them, like ours :-), become friends.

We enjoy their company, like we enjoy all life around us, and as long as they don't enter our house it's ok.
Following bearth and the growing up of these little "raskals" is pure fun, making us smile every day.

Still not real cat persons (dogs still are our favorites) we share our happy life here with these animals, as much amazed about the beauty of life in the Dalmatinska Zagora as this little white "monster".

they did it (in Hotel Villa Dvor)

Congratulations to Hotel Villa Dvor in Omis,
as they finished an almost impossible job !

They managed to build an elevator through solid rock, and finished it as planned.
(Some other efforts to create tunnels in and around Omis seem to be taking a "bit" longer).

The hotel is on a magnificent location, high above the summer crowds, on a, no...... the most beautiful spot.
High above the Cetina river, overlooking both town and canyon, with no doubt a very friendly owner's family to make your stay a true Dalmatian experience.

Gentle hospitality, organic quality food, excellent rooms, and all of it on this location, what more can a visitor want.

I highly recommend this hotel, run by the Curlin family, in my true opinion the best place to spend a couple of days and nights (if not a long stay).

Have a look at their website (www.hotel-villadvor.hr) and you'll see what I mean.

And in case you wonder: no, I still sleep in Svinisce, and yes I still pay for my espresso, even there !
But I just had to both congratulate the people of the hotel and at the same time let you know there is a magnificent place to stay when visiting Omis.

And forget about those stairs, as they are as much history as the palace of Diocletian in Split.
This is 2013, this is elevator time !

now listen !!!!!!

Listen to me, as I will not tell you again (today :-).
It's about time you understand why I write this blog, so once more:

"Visit the DALMATINSKA ZAGORA when visiting the coast" .

And for those of you who don't know what Dalmatinska Zagora means, it's all that lies behind the coast.
So to say the hinterland, everything between the coast and the border, everything behind the Adriatic and before Bosnia.

Capito ?!?!
I want you to understand this is where the real life is being lived, in all those tiny little villages.
In the very middle of nature, between high and less high mountains, in small valleys and a bit larger peaces of farmland.
Between grapes, olives, cherries, apples, plums, figs, and a wide range of organic vegetables.
With chickens, goats, sheep, ducks and some pigs.

And of course mountains, rocks, boulders, caves, rivers like the Cetina (a beauty of 105 kilometers, not only the canyon), springs, small ponds, woods and wetlands.
Silent unspoiled slow streaming canoe water, but also energetic wild white rafting water.

Numerous birds, nighingales and eagles, known and less known, lizzards, turtles and yes, some snakes too.
Don't be afraid, they don't kill, just be careful and enjoy them from a safe distance.

And if hungry, well known restaurants like Radmanova Mlinice, Kastil Slanica and Krememko, but also less known places like Konoba Tadic and Konoba Konjak (and no doubt a lot more in each and every small town).
Not only the door to door pizza's, but original, tasty fish or meat from the grill, accompanied by organic potatoes and salads, followed by a slice of dripping sweet watermelon.
Want wine, try local, as all wine here is tasty (and strong) !!!

And if you want to buy a horse or a cow, new shoes or some gardening tools, or perhaps because you're hungry, there is a farmers market in Zadvarje every tuesday.

So, when coming to Croatia, heading for Dalmatia, relaxing from a stressfull job between let's say Trogir and Makarska, don't make me angry, don't say "oh, I did'nt know that", as I have told you once again, here in the Dalmatinska Zagora is where the fun starts.

Feel free to contact me, the mail address is in the header of this blog.
I know some truly good people who make your visit the very best, from place to stay to excursion.
Including a visit to Split, Trogir, Krka or Plitvice, but also to less known places, and even over the Bosnian border to Livno, where about twohundred horses live in the wild.

But..........write it down and don't forget:

"visit the Dalmatinska Zagora".


CAPITO ?!?
:-)

turn left !

No comment (recycling works !).

don't do this at home

!! Don't do this at home !!
Better do this in Dalmatia, to be specific, on Ciovo.
As coming from Trogir, when driving towards the north-western side of Ciovo,
you'll find our absolutely favorite swimming spot.

Perfectly clear seawater, not to crowded (mainly locals) and one of the better (if not the best) restaurants (konoba in Croatian).

Ask for Konoba Django, everybody knows it overthere, so you can't mistake.
Basic, but excellent, no more no less, and a beautiful location, you'll find out.

And if you are a fish lover, do not leave Dalmatia before you've tried his !
Remember, do not leave before.....

Just DO it.

daily food

One of the many open air markets in Dalmatia.
This one is in Trogir.
All of it is pure organic food, grown and harvested in small gardens, ripened in the Dalmatian sun.

All year round seasonal vegetables and fruits are being sold.
In winter the offer is limited, from spring till alte autumn however the variation is enormous.

Once you've tasted these tomatoes, peaches, melons or figs, you'll never forget it.
Even the variety of potatoes is amazing, and.........tasteful.

why wait for summer ????

If spring is such a glorious season in Dalmatia, why wait for summer ?
Don't give me the answer, I know !
Springtime is wonderful overhere.

FIRE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

What to say to a picture like this one ?
Ok, nothing for once.

just in case

Because I am busy, not just a bit, but VERY busy, while I drink my evening coffee, I may as well write the shortest text ever in this blog.

Just in case you plan to visit Dalmatia, and look for some professional help, see www.malimlin.com, as there my good friend and travel companion does a splendid job.

He and I often go around to explore unknown places, being nature, culture or history.
To me it's all just for the fun of it, he however shares his expertise with his clients.

So if you come to Dalmatia, check his office in Omis, as he can and will offer you the very best service, so you have a fantastic holiday.

Rooms, excursions, a car, a good tip, ask Robert, it's his profession, his pride and joy, and....your holiday !!

Coffee empty, back to work.
(Just kidding, all I do is hobby, slavery is history, but I still have many hobbies).

if you don't like this view, check some other blog !

One of the many views from our valley.

Previous blogpost, with the "erotic" figs showed a close up, this one shows an immense panorama.
Whatever you like or choose, it's all here !
And "here" is in and around our valley, in the Dalmatinska Zagora.
And NO, before you ask, a trip of let's say 1 hour already opens your eyes and heart.
(Within a circle of 2 hours there is more than for just one holiday).

All people love our coast, thousands come for a splendid holiday.
Most of them enjoy themselves in and at the Adriatic, which is fine of course.
Lot's of them go to see antique cities like Split or Trogir (my favorite by the way).
And many go for some excursion, a couple of hours rafting on the Cetina, a visit of Biokovo.
All of it great, all of it perfect.
(When going for a rafting sensation, choose the better ones, as penny wise is still pound foolish".

.....................However....................
You need either have the right "expedition spirit" or a well informed local guide (like me:-).
Ho, before you think I look for a job, I don't !!!!

Should you however insist, I am sometimes in a good mood, and if I like you, I might consider to take you to some fantastic, hardly known, superb spots.

As living here, I regularly get into my car and drive a bit around, chasing beauties.
For instance, in case you want to go on your own, check this one:

Drive from Svinisce to Kucice, than on (and on) along the Cetina deep left of you, till you see a sign Slime.
Turn right, away from the Cetina, up the mountain road, till you are actually in Slime.
There you'll see a sign, right again, at a next road up, heading for Konoba Tadic.
Up you drive, narrow but all of them good roads, till you reach that konoba (restaurant in Croatian).

The view from their terrace is truly amazing, far, really far over the land deep below, deep into Bosnia.
Sit down, ask for a drink, perhaps even a lunch, and enjoy the panorama.

And ask the owner if you can see his old stone houses, as they are truly beautiful  with loads of prsut (the famous Dalmatian dried smoked aged ham.

There, dear reader, you will discover what this blog is all about.
And that is only one of the many secrets, most tourists never get to see, which is a pity and a shame.
Why ?

Because the Dalmatinska Zagora hides thousands of beauties, and promotion of the Dalmatinska Zagora should be done by people who love to share it's beauty, not necessarily grabbing for your money in the first place.

Sorry to say, many "excursions" are only meant to sell you some surrogate, like a thin soup made of much water and a tiny peace of meat.
I know, I know, people have to earn a living, but do you come to Dalmatia to sponsor it's economy or do you come for a unique experience, making you fall in love, making you come back !!!
And again and again and again.

Perhaps ending in living here, like we did.
Guess you understand now why we left Holland :-).

Feel free to mail me, the address is in the header of this blog.
Also you can check my pages on Virtual Tourist ( VT ), also with a contact address.
I am always open to relevant questions, and because I protect my freedom, I can always connect you to some truly good people, who give you value for money !

erotic fruits

Erotic fruits, that's what figs are !
Couldn't resist (re-)publishing this picture, like I did once before.

As spring has not yet arrived here, the cats have their kittens, birds are returning and nature is changing to green again day by day, so it will be spring soon (as always).

However summer is still far away, the moment will come the figs ripen at the trees again, waiting to be picked, one by one, sipping the sweet juice leaking on my hand.

Fresh they are the very best, dried still a fantastic nutritious addition to winter tables.
As you know what they say: "a fig a day keeps the apples away".
(And the doctor :-).

Should you want to dry figs yourself, here are some tasty tips:
-dry them in open sunlight.
-dip them twice in seawater (preserving and adding taste).
-wrap them in a paper bag, with dried leaves of laurel between them.
Like this you can store them for months and months.

Warning:
The milky juice from branches and stems of fig trees may cause some allergic reaction to some people.
So better avoid contact with it, and enjoy it's flesh.

one step always leads to the next

As usual, opening a box (not Pandora's :-) surprises come out.
From a request about family roots of Croats from Svinisce, living in Chili for many years, came a next item.
A friend who writes a lot about the Balkan, sent me the above picture of a grave.

However my Spanish is zero, I understand a bit.
First of all, this is the resting place of Pedro (Pero in Croatian) Kusanovic-Salamunic.
Born in 1899, died in 1981.

Many of the Croats (former Yugoslavs) left for a better future  young as they were, settling in many parts of the world.

From both my correspondents and some search with Google, I slowly get an idea of how many connections there are between Chili (Terra del Fuego) and Croatia.

I feel very privileged to be able to unfold some of those almost forgotten connections.
We (a retired Dutch couple) now living in one of those small Croatian villages, we left Holland because we wanted to.
And with internet, highways and frequent flying connections, it takes less than nothing to stay in touch or visit family or friends.

Not in those days, not for those many brave young people !
They left what was common to them, their country, their families, friends, habits and certainty.
Of they went, with hardly anything, not speaking the language, into the unknown !

Many times, when driving through our surroundings I watch all those stone walls, those little fields, high up the mountain slope, to be able to grow some food, olives and grapes.
They all did so bare handed, no cars, simple tools and very hard labor.
Those were already brave people, those who left were even much braver.

Think about it for a moment, and when visiting Dalmatia, don't think "oh well, just a simple wall", as those walls were built by a special breed of men, and when you think about that, also remember those many men and women, who left to settle in a completely unknown part of the globe.

Forgetting ones history is forgetting who you are.
Our history lies in Holland, but day by day we get more involved in our today's history in Dalmatia.
People here have a common wish to each other: "hope you live another hundred years".
Being over my sixties, I hope I live those extra hundred years, cause I opened a new box, but still have to unpack many other.
(Roman history, wild flowers and herbs, animal life, geology, oh dear, I need those hundred years).

(Rest in peace Pedro, tamo daleko, you're not forgotten).

do we have glaciers in Svinisce ?

No, if you like glaciers, this is not the place to be.
Than why do I publish this picture ?

Well than, here comes an almost unbelievable story:
I received an email from Terra del Fuego, in the deepest south of Chile.
It came from the grandson of a man who decided to move away from Svinisce, still very young, and out of all places settling at what I call the very border or civilisation.
Next stop would have been Antarctica, where all doors of freezers stay open all year :-)

For sure he's gonna read this item, so welcome Brzovic family !
And like I already replied to your email, I am gonna search and look and talk to each and everyone here to inform you about your relatives still alive and kicking in Svinisce.

Guess it's no surprise when I tell you many people from this valley in Croatia left their homeland, looking for a better future far away from the Adriatic, the olives, the wine, ánd relatives.
Those people are the bravest you can imagine, as they left behind all that was so very common to them.

All around the world you'll find people from Croatia (and former Yugoslavia), and most of them made a success of it !

As soon as I have more details worth sharing with you readers of this blog, I will publish them, if possible with pictures.
Interesting to you in general, highly interesting to those brave Dalmatians around the globe, who still think back to the days they lived in and around Svinisce.

And if you are connected to Svinisce, but living in Canada, America, Australia , or anywhere else, please write me an email, as any new info is highly welcome.

My email address is in the header of this blog (slightly hidden from spambots).

Pozdravi iz Hrvatska, pozdravi iz Svinisce !!!

what a night (in Omis).

Omis by night.
Just one of the many fantastic places to enjoy in Dalmatia.

You readers know I like to share dalmatian highlights with you, places I like, things we enjoy living here.
But I wanted to extend my audience to a larger scale than the limits of my blog.

Having written a couple of items on Virtual Tourist's website, I decided to share this link with you, as on VT there is a lot more info, as I am not the only "idiot" loving Dalmatia and sharing info with the world.

So here it is: click on the link: at VT there's a lot more and you'll find a lot more.
The good thing is that many others publish there.
Don't be afraid, I will of course continue to add special details to my blog, but if interested, Virtual Tourist is a great place to look around, ask questions and find answers.

I just hope you keep following this blog, and even more, I hope you don't decide to fly to China, Argentina or Holland now I told you where to look or to enjoy superior nature or historic towns in those countries.
VT is sharing the whole world with the whole world, with thousands of local specialists.

I prefer to stay your local "specialist" for our surroundings, and believe me, I've seen many countries,
but nothing beats Dalmatia !!!

So yes, I'll add some interesting spots to my VT-pages too, but no, I will not fly to any other country anymore, as having seen a lot, this country still is so damned nice, with such a load of interesting, beautiful  special places, I truly would be an idiot if I hopped over oceans, while having it all here !!!!

what a view (on Biokovo Mountain)

See previous page.
And for sure follow this blog, as there is more to come !

The picture shows Biokovo Mountain like a Swiss alp, taken from the SW side, close to a little village called Slime.

For details on the park, click here: BIOKOVO

enlarge and look !!!

Do click to enlarge this picture !
Than think back to when people used to survive here ages ago.
Picture taken in Biokovo Mountain Park.

Yesterday, me, my wife and two local friends went to Biokovo once more to enjoy the snow on the higher parts of the mountain.
The lower parts (up to 700 meters.) are hardly ever seeing snow, the higher parts however (up to 1800 meters) are packed with snow, lots of it (even up to 3 meters thick).
Currently snow conditions are less, next week however there might be another load coming, as the winter ain't over yet.
(If interested in weather conditions, click here: Biokovo weather).

We took a lot of pictures, this one however is special, as it shows an old "forgotten" little village.
Houses in those days, hundreds of years ago, where built from whatever available, and as you can see rock is the number one material here.
Thick walls were piled up, some wood to construct a roof, then covered with more rock.
Hot during the day, especially in summer, cold during winter, both night and day.
(Stone cold indeed :-).

Life on the mountain was harsh in those days, with tiny minimal patches of land to grow a very basic amount of food ( some potatoes, some cabbage, a tiny apple tree or plum, and if possible some grapes and olives).
Goats always survive, sheep sometimes, and if lucky a cow and a donkey.
(So milk they had, to make some cheese to store for a while).

If lucky !!!, as this was, is and will always be true nature.
With wolves, boars, chamois, rabbits and snakes, and.......a lack of water as this is karst, where water easily disappears into caves (which there are a lot of).

What made people decide to live here, were the uncertain conditions along the Adriatic coast and inland, where occupation was as usual as the sun coming up.
Romans, Venetians, Turks, Austrians, Russians, Italians and Germans (no hard feeling folks, times have changed), and a lot more, including pirates.
Not the best conditions indeed to spread a towel and enjoy the sun at the Adriatic.

So people fled up into the mountains, and survived the conditions there, creating a minimal life with whatever possible or available.

After WW2, under the rule of Tito, living conditions at the coast increased, and the industrial revolution brought jobs and good housing to many inhabitants.
A good moment therefor to come down to the coast, and leave those damned slopes.

What stayed are these remarkable forgotten villages and single houses, melting into the rocky landscape.
You'll see many of them on Biokovo, but also in many other parts of Dalmatia's hinterland.

On many locations you'll witness how tough these people were, cleaning little patches of good soil from rocks, piling them up in numerous walls, fixing the soil against sliding away under heavy rains.
An amazing people in an amazing land.

Switserland ?, Austria ?, no ,this also is Dalmatia !!!!!

So up we went, up the road into Biokovo, heading for the summit at Sv. Jure, but happy with every meter less as long as we found snow.

And snow we found, already at 3000 ft. (1000 meters), driving carefully on a clean road, surrounded by sometimes a meter or more of snow walls left and right.

We are the lucky ones, we live here all year round, but to those who think Dalmatia is only worth a summer visit, wrong you are indeed.

Sad enough there are no prepared pistes (why not, on the N/E side ?), but for people who like the unbelievable combination of winter sun at the Adriatic combined with a winter wonderland like this, a stay in or around Makarska is certainly a good advice.

As it's still winter, not all days are as good, but who cares, as you can always plan a trip to Split, visiting one of the many museums, a concert or one of the enormous modern shopping malls (City Center One for instance), or just sit back at one of the many terraces, covered from wind or rain, with a good book and a good glass.

But íf it's one of those (also) many sunny days, any trip into the Dalmatinska Zagora (the hinterland) or Biokovo Mountain shows you how beautiful Dalmatia is before the beaches are covered with sun seeking lazy relaxing tourists.

And do see my previous page about Makarska's best pastries, a great way to finish an afternoon's walk in the "Alps".

Kavana Romana Makarska, a MUST DO !

As expected, the beautiful waterfront of Makarska has many terraces, no doubt all serving an excellent coffee or drink at this fantastic location.
The shiny blue bay of Makarska in front, a row of palm trees ánd...behind you Biokovo Mountains (if lucky, snow covered),
but that ain't all.

If you decide to sit down for whatever drink, DO, please dó go for the place called Kavana Romana, close to where Jadrolinija ships come from and leave for the islands.

Reason to share this little secret are their pastries, each of them mouth watering, like we experienced again yesterday.

We took a seat in the sun, overlooking the waterfront in a mild winter sun, and as I knew why, I told my friends to follow me inside, as thére is where the fun starts !!!!

Soft, fluffy, tasty, creamy, colorful, rich pastries, all of them of a non Croatian (sorry Croatia) quality !
All of us five decided for a different peace (lucky me, as now I could try a bit of all five), and all of us were in heaven.

Five excellent coffees, great service, five delicacies, all together kn. 122 (let's say 15 euro's), combined with thát view, it's unprecedented !!!

We live a good half hour's drive from Makarska, and no doubt it's worth the trip.
So for sure I will find some excuses to return, again and again, as there are still some sorts I simply múst try !
(If only interested in their pastries, they also have a shop in another part of town, I discovered but not yet visited).

Check the internet at http://www.romana-makarska.com, a true delight, worth a visit.

PS.
Visited the top of Biokovo again yesterday (July 23), leaving early in the morning as than it's less hot and much less crowded on the very top.
Magnificent as always, specially when returning, at about 1400 meters, going for a hike.
Even discovered an abandoned stone house where an old cherry tree still carried cherries.
Gonna go back there to get some branches to reproduce that cherry as however small fruits, they tasted like heaven (sweet, highly aromatic, unique !).

Returning home through Makarska, couldn't resist to buy me some pieces of Kavana Romana's cake.
OOOOOFFFFF, splendid again, especially their lemon-cheese and the pure chocolate cake.
Thanks again folks, for making such HIGH quality delights !
And to all people visiting Dalmacija, go to Makarska, and get some of that cake !!!!
(Driving from Lidl back to the coastal road to Omis, you'll find their shop on the left side).

black days

One day all will be perfect.

Most of the time I get inspired by new discoveries, caught in a picture, or many of the little golden moments our life here gives to us.
Happy moments, stunning places, a taste of the young wine, always better than the year before.

Recently however we experienced a range of sad events, losing four good people, all relatives of each other.
Yesterday we brought a close friend and very fine person to his last resting place, much to soon, much to young, leaving everybody in shock.
Why he, why now, why ?

Tomorrow again we go to accompany a good man to his resting place, the fourth in a row of close relatives.
No words can express our sympathy to family, relatives and friends.

Still, even on black days like these, the traditional values of our community show their quality.

Here a funeral takes place the next day, so coming from northern europa where a funeral takes place at least three days after a person passes away, to us this seems like a roller coaster ride of emotions, especially to family and close relatives.
And as usual, many things have to be arranged in extremely short time, under emotional conditions.
Here again, our community steps in, and takes most of that organizing load away from the relatives' shoulders.

Yesterday hundreds of people showed up to support the relatives in their saddest moment, paying respect to the deceased, a fántástic person, husband, father and a great friend for so many.

Traditionally all gather at the foot of the hill on which the church is standing, together waiting for the deceased, to subsequently walk up the hill while our local group of singers sing traditional hymns and the priest is saying prayers.
Can't tell how serene this walk is, so many thoughts, sad, thankful and proud to be part of this community, where joy and sadness are shared.

Neighbors and friends carry all the flowers, that are brought to the grave after the final service in our church has started.
And when the burial takes place again our singers sing a goodbye, our priest says prayers, all of it in a most beautiful silent landscape.

As a visiting tourist you won't be part of moments like this, still I wanted to share it with you.
To make you understand there are many reasons to love Svinišće.

As even black days make life in the Dalmatinska Zagora so very rich.