As you (may or should) know, I like to share my favourite hidden secrets.
So here's another one.
If you are staying between let's say Makarska and Omis, somewhere in the middle is the road to Zadvardje/Sestanovac.
This road is easy to find, so no need to explain in details.
When driving up, take the véry first road to the left towards Slime.
Now, slowly please, as you have to "discover" the very first narrow road to the left.
Found it, great !
Now slowly drive up this road, and up, and up you go.
Already you'll see some places to stop your car on the left, so stop and enjoy the panorama on your left.
But you can continue this road, so up again, and up, up, up.
Slowly, as some corners are narrow,
filled with plants overhanging the sides.
If you drive in the middle, nothing will harm your vehicle, if driving a motor no worries at all, and if you're afraid of the paint of your car, well, than continue walking.
Not a bad idea at all, as every step is a great one.
At some point you'll reach the spot where I go many times (by car, ha ha ha), at a corner where there is enough space to park.
Stop here, even when the road still goes up, as higher up the view does not get better.
This is my ultimate spot, this is where you can enjoy the móst stunning view, and this is, especially later in the afternoon, where you can sit down and experience how Biokovo (the big one on the left)
slowly changes colour.
Oh, and before I forget it, take some nice food and a bottle of good wine with you, as you'll feel on top of the world,
with no urge to go back down.
Smell the herbs around you, get impressed by the immense mountain, enjoy the weird rock formations around you.
You might even fantasize an Indian is observing you from behind one of the stones above you.
Crazy idea ?
Not really, as it were these sceneries where the films about Winnetou and Old Shatterhand were filmed.
Amazing Dalmatia, always amazing.
Especially where you don't expect it to be.
Enjoy the scene, and keep it clean please, for me and others to follow.
PS. Zadvardje has a nice farmers market on Tuesdays. So if you want to buy a cow or a pig to take home................. But that's worth another story.
Specially for nature lovers lovers (like me),
Dalmatia amazes ánd attracts évery day.
As goes for all in- or outdoor sports fanatics (not like me :-).
However, if you like skiing (yes, like me !!!) Croatia (ánd neighbouring) countries offer unique opportunities.
For climbing fanatics (like I used to be before I became fat and lazy), Dalmatia, and certainly Omis with its stunning Cetina Canyon,
is a 365 days a year destination.
Without freezing your hands or balls :-)
Many pages ago I already wrote about combining in óne single day a strong espresso, sipped in the sun at the Adriatic, followed by a not even that far trip into Bosnia, to spend a couple of hours skiing down well prepared pistes in various gradations.
Wow................... I rest my case.
However....I must add such a day gets a perfect finish, back in Dalmatia, sitting in a traditional konoba (cellar), enjoying a delicious peka (a dish baked on wood fire under a lid).
With a glass of new wine, to keep your throat from drying out :-).
Yes, Dalmatia (and entire Croatia for that matter) is absolutely
a 365 days a year destination.
Especially for people (like me) who like to avoid summer crowds.
So what are you waiting for, with so many carriers connecting Split (or Zagreb) with whatever part of the world you live in.
Also all year round !
PS. However the mentioned website is absolutely worth visiting, I discovered one imperfection. They forgot to mention one great all year round possibility: www.Total Inland Dalmatia.com
And being voluntary ambassador :-) of Inland Dalmatia, it's my pride and joy to add it to the already lóóóóng list of possibilities to get out of foggy London, smoky Beijing or rainy Amsterdam.
(click to enlarge)
Most people visiting our part of Dalmatia,
come to relax and enjoy the climate, the sea and some pizza's.
Well, right they are, and I think I don't have to dig into details here.
Ok, quickly than :-).
The Adriatic, the Cetina, Biokovo, Split and Trogir, or even Dubrovnik, and yes, also Krka and/or Plitvice.
Of course a couple of excursions are a must.
All of them worth doing, even if it's one of those "fishpicknicks".
(Sorry folks, I am not a fish eater, I prefer a good peka with good meat.)
But, there is a NEW experience:
Already in 2009 I wrote about a stunning bunch of wild horses,
already more than two hundred !!!,
that live in the Livno area, hardly one hour away from Split.
Mind you, totally wild, noble animals, scrolling the pastures of Livno Polje (flatlands), or way up on the slopes of Dinara or Cincar mountains.
And mind you again, year round, in hot summers and freezing winters.
More than two hundred (and increasing), what a sight, what a beautiful encounter with nature at it's best.
For long I wondered why nobody organised some sort of trip, excursion, expedition or safari, but things have changed for the better,
ánd for you, as now there is such a possibility.
As for such an excursion you need someone with knowledge of the terrain, as it's not always simple to find the animals in their natural habitat, never at the same spot.
An experienced guide, a strong 4x4, and while it's Nature (with a large N), a pair of good hiking shoes are a necessity.
And you of course, with just a small group, interested in more than the average offer of excursions, as you want to get the véry bést from your stay in this amazing region.
Being the nature lover I am (one of the main reasons why we now live here) I highly recommend you to see: wild horses safari
Either they or my good hiking companion Robert from malimlin can arrange your day trip to those fantastic animals, visiting a beautiful neighbour country at the same time.
Check the various details on internet (google: wild livno horses) and you'll understand the reason I wrote this third page about it.
Oh.... and by the way, Livno has some interesting historic things to see, ánd a special river coming out of nowhere. But that's another story, and another blog page :-) !! GO SEE THEM HORSES !! Look here ! And also hére !! And ábsólutely hére !!!
The reason is simple, I love to learn more about Croatia/Dalmatia,
and the surrounding countries.
Much of their information is highly interesting, even when much of it is about Slavic countries far from ours (and many times much colder).
But Croatia being a Slavic country too, much of the information is interesting to me, telling about culture, history ánd............nature.
Recently the newsletter was telling about a magnificent artist, painter and photographer, called Vyacheslav Mishchenko.
His pictures made me feel very humble,
with my simple Canon Powershot and not blessed with his gifted way
of looking at nature's magic.
However, I am not totally blind, ánd living in a charming valley, surrounded by stunning nature.
I love to walk around, always discovering some nice flower, a snake or a lizard, and numerous signs of extremely hard working people.
Old stone walls, forgotten houses, even complete villages, an old fruit tree as the prove of better days, when people still lived in such now abandoned places, simple but honest and proud.
Not the most easy life, as everything had to be done by hand, stone after stone, creating tiny patches of workable land to grow whatever was needed to survive harsh conditions.
As however we are "blessed" with electricity, tap water, roads and a lot more today, all around us the country tells of those brave people who made it possible to us to be living here today.
Ok, we also did our bit of work to change the piece of "jungle" our land once was, but it were those ancestors who fought nature in the first place, and created what can be experienced today.
And you'll be amazed how very special our valley is today.
As today we are most happy people living in a most beautiful valley, with a couple of good neighbours around us, ánd...........
lots of pristine nature, silence, a pleasant climate and very fertile soil.
Thát's why I write these pages, so you know Dalmatia has so much more to offer than only a magnificent Adriatic Coast.
And, because our nature is similar to nature in parts of Ukraine, the country where Vyacheslav lives and works,
I highly recommend you to visit his website.
(Do click to enlarge those tiny symbols, written in Dutch). (The orange line shows day temperatures, the blue one temperature during night, and yes there will be some rain, but on average things still look pretty nice, so why not plan a trip, as even in autumn Dalmatia is a pleasant alternative).
But let's face reality: do not trust those copywriters making you believe Dalmatia álways has terrific weather, as they are paid to lie.
The picture above tells the truth, and I'll add a bit of truth to it.
Today for instance, it was raining here in Svinisce.
Ok, not all the time, but when it falls it's a lot.
In fact, the whole summer was slightly "different", and as a result the potatoes did great, but grapes, olives and figs, all of them sunlovers,
did bad this year, véry bad !
Is it all a result of the feared climate change, who knows, so better wait for next year than.
Fact is, there were more moments of heavy rain like last night and this morning, with thunderstorms and hail.
Not being dependent of the result of my home grown vegetables and herbs, to me this summer was good anyway, resulting in many great delicious dishes and a stuffed freezer.
To neighbours and friends around us however, good crops of necessary basics like olives and grapes for instance, are a múst.
Let me explain this.
Wages in Croatia are low, véry low, while expenses are similar to any other country in Europe.
So what do people do here, they grow there own.
Not as a hobby like me, but because it takes the pressure of the daily budget for food, leaving some money for bills.
(Water, electricity, fuel for the necessary vehicle, it's all as expensive as in any other European country).
For that reason, everything grown around us is a necessity to people living here, yes, including grapes for wine and rakija,
including olives for delicious olive oil.
Socializing here means having a chat and a drink together, and since beer or coffee have to be bought, people grow and make their own drinks, juices and liquors.
Which makes sense, ánd....which tastes very well too !
Ok, back to the weather, and the current statistics,
as statistics hardly ever lie (do they ?).
In the picture above you can see the prediction for upcoming ten days.
Temperature still at a pleasant average of 20-23 degrees Celsius, and however not what we like most, some rain today and tomorrow.
And as a result of locally heavy (!!) rains, towns like Zadar, Makarska and Imotski suffered big problems, as the water came pouring down, flooding streets and creating unexpected waterfalls.
But like I said, "shit weather is also weather", and these couple of days of shit weather I use to organise my load of seeds,
ready for next growing season.
Let's hope for people around us, next year will be less uncertain, resulting in nice healthy crops of grapes and olives.
"I keep hopping like a frog, from here to there and back again".
Perhaps one day I will sit or lay down to rest, but heaven can wait.
And till that day comes I keep jumping around in Dalmacija.
To send me an email, try pimdevos X gmail.com ( in which X is @ ), I might even answer it.